Contrary to our productive start yesterday, Nic and I set no alarms and therefore woke at around 10am. Our leisurely start was a foreboding of what was to come, you guessed it, another chill day on another beach!
The coastal views on the ferry to Positano, our chosen beach for the day, are sublime and you can’t imagine there is one spot on the whole of the Amalfi Coast that isn’t an absolute dream to see. I challenge anyone to take a ‘bad’ photo of these colourful, quaint towns nestled in the side of the hills; I just don’t think it is possible.
The same can be said for Positano. Now I understand why people wax lyrical about arriving into this gorgeous port with multi-coloured houses that look like they are stacked on top of one another. The sea is crystal clear and the most vibrant blue. Picture postcard heaven.
We had read that Positano has two beaches, the main beach you see as you enter the port, and then Spaggia al Fornilla, just west of the main thoroughfare. We opted for this less swanky, less formal beach over it’s neighbour and found sun beds and parasols aplenty for hire. It was more reasonably priced than Amalfi which surprised me, as Positano is well-known for exuding luxury and style.
This beach has been our favourite for swimming and as you swim out of the bay and turn back, your heart just swells. It’s a real pinch yourself moment. We shared some limoncello spritz and pizza, before returning to Salerno, sun kissed and sleepy. The sun was dipping behind the hills on our return, the wind whipped through our sea-salty hair and the sun’s rays touched our backs. There really is no better feeling.
For our final dinner in Salerno, we booked a table at Mamma Rosa, the restaurant we had sampled on the Friday we arrived. The food and service was nothing less than perfect so we wanted to fill our boots one last time before we left. The fried anchovies we shared were perfect with a drizzle of lemon juice and spring onion, a little like whitebait but a tad bigger – not for the faint hearted if you don’t want to eat whole fish, bones and all.
We both chose a pasta dish, one with goats cheese and cuttlefish for Nic, the other a classic spaghetti alla vongole i.e. clams. From the pictures of our empty plates, it’s reasonable to assume that they were both TO DIE FOR!
Unperturbed by our already full stomachs, we delved into desserts and shared a lemon sorbet, served up in a frozen Amalfi lemon with limoncello on the side.
I must note that during dinner, Nic was still feeling the effects of the boat trip back from Positano, as was I, and whilst we ate we could both feel the swaying sea. Fortunately a bottle of wine and the limoncello had seemed to reverse the effects and now we were swaying for a different reason! Another wonderful day and night.
We went running!! OK, so it was only a pathetic 2 mile effort, but even at 8am the temperature reaches 24 degrees. We were achey and slow to say the least, but nonetheless we got some endorphins kick-started and it was beautiful to run along the port.
After a quick breakfast stop; coffee and croissants filled with cream and Nutella, we went to buy tickets to Amalfi. You can reach Amalfi, Positano, Maiori and Minori easily by catching a water taxi or ferry along the coast. For €16 we boarded the ferry bound for Amalfi. Although it is a short 30 minute journey, neither myself or Nic are good on boats and have a track record of being ill. We dosed up on travel sickness tablets and proudly made it to shore without any embarrassing moments.
Nic’s ‘I’m fine’ face.
At this time of the year Amalfi is rammed! People everywhere, cars and mopeds flying around the crowds in frustration and a traffic officer repeatedly blowing on his whistle and trying to keep the peace! If you visit in a August, just expect the chaos and you’ll be fine. We headed straight to Marina Grande, the largest beach. Already it was busy and most of the beach bars and rental sun beds were taken. Just when we felt like giving up and dumping our towels on the large pebbles (Amalfi Coast beaches are not synonymous with sand), we walked to the furthest beach bar and got lucky. For €25 we hired two sun loungers and a parasol for as long as we desired, so basically the entire day!
When the sun started to creep behind the buildings behind us, we packed up and had a fleeting wander around the streets of Amalfi. Admittedly we didn’t enjoy our window-shopping; masses of tourists and windy, narrow streets don’t bode well for a relaxing time. Their main church however, is rather worth a look at and can be seen from the ferry when entering Amalfi. Here everything towers over the seafront and as you hop from one beach to another on the Amalfi Coast, each coastal summit promises to deliver spectacular views.
Amalfi lemons are represented in just about everything here, from tea towels and kitchen ceramics, to lemon soap and of course limoncello. We were drawn into one quieter ceramics shop, with all its goods branded with hand painted donkeys. We bought 2 espresso mugs for €10 and learnt about the donkey becoming a symbol of Amalfi.
We also couldn’t leave without sampling something with their famous lemons. The granita caught our attention and our tastebuds! The tang and zinginess of this delightful lemon is unreal and it certainly woke our senses up! We could drink this all day. We strolled along the coast, waiting for our ferry to come in and caught our last images of Amalfi with the sun-dappled sea and bobbing boats in the harbour.
By this point, our lack of energy probably attributed to having survived off no more than some watermelon, fresh coconut and some juicy peaches all day. When we got back to Salerno (check the latest times water taxis and ferries return to your destinations, they are not late) we could only think about food. Yes, we were wasting away!
We’d spotted a cool sushi bar, Banzai, on the high street and craved something different and fresh whilst still using all of that gorgeous seafood. We shared a sushi board with salmon, tuna and white fish before moving on to some hot plates, yaki soba and salmon teriyaki with rice. Now we were firing on ‘most’ cylinders again!
Once the sun had set, we went to a boat bar, moored up on the port. It looks swanky but the prices for food are similar to those back home. We each had a glass of white wine and some nibbles. Most importantly, we watched the lights of the harbour twinkling on the sea’s surface and crowds of people walking along and looking at the discounted sunglasses stalls or the children’s toys, all with flashing lights and annoying sounds! On the way home, we went past a place we had been told of, which specialises in ice-cream filled brioche, something we must try before we go!
Our day started early to catch the 09.18 to Salerno. For this 2 hour trip, we treated ourselves to first class, still considerably cheaper than the UK with many more perks!
The minute we arrived in to Salerno, we had a good feeling about the place. In the first 10 minutes of walking to our apartment, we saw more restaurants that took our fancy than in the 4 days we spent in Rome. At last we were back in food heaven territory! You also notice straight away, the amount of street art and graffiti in Salerno. Here is a taster of some by Alfonso Gatto, that we passed while climbing some steps towards our apartment.
We met Eduardo, our host, a jazz and classically trained pianist. He showed us round and gave us a map, pointing out places to go. All Airbnb apartments we have stayed in during our honeymoon have gone above and beyond by sharing good locations and local tips, unlike some of the more expensive hotels. Eduardo then showed us his living quarters on the other side of the B&B apartments and gave us a little glimpse into his life. He had a cat, tick. He also had a robotic hoover bumping its way round his bathroom, a hilarious tick.
When Nic mentioned that he played piano, Eduardo invited Nic to sit at one of his, explaining the mechanics of this instrument, compared to the other pianos he had in the cellar where he tutors people to play. Eduardo told us that he lived in Paris for 7 years, his wife 15, and they both played piano professionally. He was based in Montmartre, playing for one of the restaurants, before returning to his home town Salerno. One can imagine how many interesting stories and anecdotes this guy has.
It was lunch time and we were hungry (surprise surprise!) so we walked to a recommended restaurant called Mamma Rosa. Within 30 minutes of being there, the place was full of hungry Italians on their lunch breaks and the atmosphere was great. So too was the waiter, who on learning that we were from the UK, told us he worked for Grovesnor Casinos and travelled all around their UK casinos before spending time on a cruise ship. It really is amazing the stories these strangers come out with! We assumed he could be one of the sons of Mamma Rosa, whose motto was written on the walls and menus; “My passion for cooking can only be compared to the immeasurable love I have for my sons”. What an utter babe!
The waiter was keen to tell us about their fresh morning catch of baby squid and razor clams; we couldn’t resist and went for the former. We also shared some fried salt cod and a pasta dish with olives, capers and more fish. Being near the sea, it really would be rude to eat anything other than seafood and so we devoured every last bit of the plentiful dishes and wobbled our way out of the door!
Today and for the remainder of our holiday, we were determined not to do a lot. Our final day of Rome, rampaging around the ancient ruins was quite frankly enough and now it was time to relax! So relax we did, on the small beach of Salerno. This town is better known as having a port but a small public beach is still available. It’s not as nice as Santa Marinella, the beach we visited outside of Rome; it’s busier, smaller and not as clean but it was perfect for what we needed.
During the evening, we were still absolutely full from our feast earlier, so we just headed out to an Italian craft beer bar called BAI that we heard about from a friend. Off a smaller side street, BAI had a delicious range of beer on draft, as well as, floor to ceiling fridges full of intriguing bottles whose labels I had little chance of reading! We started with a session IPA and a white IPA on draft alongside some aperitivo snacks. We moved on to some bottles and shared a coffee, oatmeal stout and a lemon, bergamot and coriander Tripel. And that folks, was quite enough for one night. We ambled back home, watched Gladiator on Netflix (inspired by Rome obviously!) and promptly fell asleep.
Thank goodness for our rest day on the beach. Little did we know that we would walk over 13 miles today alone! Our last full day in Rome was always going to be packed full and we set our sights on Ancient Rome; Palatine Hill, the Roman forum and the Colosseum.
Unlike the Vatican Museums, we hadn’t booked tickets in advance, largely because the website wouldn’t let us when we were in the UK. So we woke up early to get there for 08.30. The queue for tickets at the Colosseum were already estimated to take 2 hours, but luckily for us we had done our research. Just south of the Colosseum, there is another entrance to Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum where you can still buy a combination ticket. In less than 10 minutes we had our tickets and started the ascent, over the old Roman cobbles towards P-Hill.
Immediately we were struck by the incredible artistry, architecture and engineering that meant we were still able to see the structures built thousands of years ago. Nic was most impressed by the brickwork and mortar, suggesting it had stood the test of time unlike anything we see in housing construction today! Nerdy but true.
Also putting modern construction to shame, was the information about the water and heating systems that the Romans devised in a complicated series of baths and cisterns. You could imagine the sophisticated set up they had, here on this hill and the grandeur of it all, despite the buildings and structures being mere ruins. The views from Palatine Hill put the size and scale of this ancient city into perspective and I would highly recommend starting your visit here, rather than the obvious Colosseum.
At every turn, there was something else to help paint the image of the life the Ancient Romans led here, and anyone with an imagination could absolutely visualise being here, in a thriving, bustling, affluent city. To stand in the house of Rome’s first emperor, Augustus, and his wife Livia and to walk along the same mosaic flooring they did was pretty overwhelming. I didn’t expect it to touch me like it did. Thankfully, Augustus made many changes to his residences and these rooms we stood in were so well-preserved because he buried and built over them to create a Temple of Apollo. Sat underground for years, these original houses were eventually unearthed and restored. Even the frescoes and painted ceilings remain intact, the vibrancy if the colours still visible. These were clearly houses intended to impress neighbours and visitors alike.
We spent less time looking in detail at the Roman forum, instead enjoying the views over this area as we walked down. By this point the sun was at it’s highest and we had spent 3 hours lapping up the thrilling history on P-Hill.
With our timed ticket into the Colosseum not until 16.00, we walked back to our apartment to grab some trousers (needed for later!) and then chowed down some delicious pizzas and beer. We were still heady from the morning but the atmosphere as we ate was electric and the place busy with Italians enjoying the start of their national holiday, Ferragosto. It celebrates and coincides with the Catholic feast of the Assumption of Mary and the locals like to make a long weekend of it.
On returning to the Colosseum, I have to admit that I didn’t think it was going to beat Palatine Hill and the forum. Like the Sistine Chapel on Tuesday, I felt that the hype of such a place was almost setting it up to fail. There is no doubt that the sheer size and detail of the Colosseum is spectacular to see but our visit ticked a box, you just can’t visit Rome without seeing it. What happened inside the Colosseum interests me more than the building itself but this didn’t come alive in the same way this morning’s sights had. I’m glad to have done it, but don’t feel the need to again.
Now for the trousers part. If you have been reading this blog, you’ll have realised I haven’t mentioned St. Peter’s Basilica. Our intentions to visit it on Tuesday after the Vatican were altered as it would have meant visiting at the busiest part of the day. Of course we couldn’t just stroll in to the Pope’s pad without covering our legs and shoulders (not that it stops some people from trying anyway!). It staggers me how many visitors we have seen on this trip through Italy, that haven’t got the slightest clue about the expectations to cover shoulders and legs in a religious building.
St. Peter’s square is amazing. The hustle and bustle of vendors fobbing fake rosary beads and holy water is entertaining and bizarre. The men selling scarves also make a killing from the unprepared women who wear spaghetti straps or no straps at all! The imposing columns topped with marble statues of previous popes are so huge, you can hardly imagine how they got all the way up there in the first place!
The inside of St.Peter’s is no different and the size of the statues alone is staggering. This really is ‘the business’ when it comes to representing the Catholic Church. I was impressed and embarrassed in equal measure, by the evident wealth the Catholic Church possesses; I couldn’t help but cringe slightly at the numerous ‘offering’ boxes scattered around.
When evening mass began at 18.00, we obediently took a seat and watched on, trying to fathom what was being said. It’s not often you can say “Hey, I just went for mass at St. Peter’s!” and for that I am really glad we stayed to witness it. I did feel a little uncomfortable though as Italians went to take the blood and body of Christ, the wine and wafer, from the priest, some returning to their seats almost in tears from the experience. As you can tell, I’m not religious (“Really Rosie? That really surprises me!” – said no one ever) and so I couldn’t help feel like I was an imposter, privy to something I shouldn’t be.
I was glad to exit St. Peter’s swiftly and take comfort in the square, back with the ‘normal’ folk. Feet now knackered, we hopped on a bus back towards the train station and flopped on to the bed with relief. No more walking around like mad men, no more sights to see. All we needed now was a hefty meal and a well-earned drink while planning our morning trip to Salerno, on the Amalfi Coast. So far, plans consist of nothing but relaxing in the sun during our last few days in this wonderful country.
What Nic and I haven’t told you in this blog, is that our bodies are starting to feel the effect of all this touring. Between us we have one functioning body and are currently held together with painkillers, blister plasters and germoline (which seems to soothe just about everything)! So today we took a train, not far from Rome, to Santa Marinella, an hours train ride from the city centre.
What heaven and joy awaited us as we walked less than 5 minutes from the station to the beach. Beautiful sand, the clearest of water and life-giving sun! For €34 we bought two sun beds and a parasol for the day (the beach is private so expect to pay for the pleasure!) and quite frankly it was the best €34 we could have spent!
For the next 6 hours, we chilled, read, played cards, ate pizza and bobbed around in the sparkling, blue sea. Our legs, feet and just about everything else thanked us for the break and once again we feel human!
This evening, we ate at, you guessed it, il Mercato Centrale! I had a delicious pork ramen with a difference; truffle pearls, and Nic ate his body weight in black pork marinated in chestnut beer. Let’s just say we were carbing up for another big day tomorrow; the Colosseum, Roman forums, Palatine Hill and St. Peter’s Basilica!
I promised to keep this post short and sweet so I’ll aim to do just that. Today in one word, exhausting. So much so, I write this from our apartment bed, Nic snoozing, air-con whacked up on high and all intentions to doze off soon too.
Today was Vatican day. In all honesty, I’m not going to write much about it, not because it isn’t one of the most noteworthy attractions to visit in Rome/Europe/World, but because I wouldn’t be able to find the words to sum it up properly. Nor could any amount of pictures do it justice.
At 8am we had breakfast here, on the top floor of the Vatican Museums, before taking the best part of 4.5 hours to explore the collections, ending of course, with the Sistine Chapel.
The Raphael rooms were astonishing but as I said, no picture does the artist justice. You have to see it to believe it, even if it isn’t your kind of art.
Another highlight, and one collection I was keen to see, having read up on it and been recommended it from so many, was the Map Room. Utterly outstanding and in my opinion, one of the most beautiful corridors of showcased art in the building.
More of an unexpected surprise, but one of our favourite parts of the Vatican Museums, was the collection of contemporary religious art before you reach the Sistine Chapel. From Matisse and Marini to Klee and Kandinsky, modern artists are given the space to represent their ideas of religion and it was absolutely fascinating.
There were two exhibitions I particularly liked, one from Henri Matisse which I would have expected seeing as I am already a fan. The other was from a Marino Marini, an artist I hadn’t come across until today but really liked. If anyone can find a print of his ‘Cavallo Rosso’ or Red Horse then do let me know!
Now please don’t all gasp at once when I tell you that my first thought of the Sistine Chapel was “is that it?”. I just couldn’t help feeling a little underwhelmed. Perhaps the build up had let it down. I have no idea what I expected, except more, I guess. Some of the churches we have stumbled upon down a random street have wowed me more than this did.
The rest of the day went as follows; beer stop, walk, panini stop (La Salumaria is a great lunch stop!), walk, Chiesa Nuova (lovely church), Piazza Navona, Chiesa San’Agnese (another excellent church with the skull of dear little St. Agnes immortalised behind glass), walk, Chiesa San Luigi dei Francesi (the national church of France in Italy and home to a trio of Caravaggio paintings to see for free!), walk, the Pantheon (❤️), water stop, walk walk walk, home…collapse.
So I leave you with some pictures of the beautiful Piazza Navona, the wonderful freebie Caravaggio paintings we saw and finally the delectable Pantheon, home to entombed kings of Italy and the wonderful Raphael, whose frescos adorned the walls and ceilings of the Vatican Museum rooms dedicated to the very same. Time for us to eat, sleep, repeat…or perhaps not. Stay tuned to find out!
Suitcases packed (3 bottles of wine heavier!) and stomachs fed, we caught a taxi to Siena’s train station. To get to Rome, we would have two legs to complete our journey.
Leg 1: Siena to Florence SMN – approx 1.5hrs.
Leg 2: Florence SMN to Rome Termini – approx 1.5hrs.
Having had problems on our train to Siena, it was with trepidation that we boarded the return to Florence, hoping that we wouldn’t have a repeat cancellation and therefore missing our connecting train to Rome! Thankfully, this was not the case and we were able to travel Leg 1 in the comfort that we would catch the connection.
During the first railway stint, it was time to scrub up on my knowledge of Rome and to map out the next few days. Admittedly, I know little of Rome and the significance of each tourist attraction. Nic on the other hand, understands a little more of the city’s layout and thus spent the journey earphones in for some peace and quiet.
We are staying in an Airbnb in the North-East of Rome, an area known for the Santa Maria Maggiore, the Trevi fountain and the up-and-coming district of Monti, which is the place to go for shops and street food. Just further out, there is also MAXXI; a modern art gallery, showcasing 21st century Italian artists. If we get the chance, I would love to see the contrast between Renaissance and ‘now’. So, my first thoughts are to spend our first afternoon exploring here.
Tomorrow, we have tickets booked for the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel, with breakfast included. With an early start, we should make St.Peter’s Basilica at 7am too. I’m certain this will be our most exhausting day in a Rome! The Pantheon is also in the area. Let’s face it, the sights in and around the Vatican are endless so we’ll need to be selective. As for the 7km (4 mile) stretch of the Vatican Museums, we definitely want to see the Raphael Rooms, the Sistine Chapel and the Maps Room…what we manage to squeeze in after that is yet to be decided!
What we actually managed to do…
Mercato Centrale – luckily for us, I had booked our Airbnb opposite the Rome’s version of the same food market we visited in Florence, only with different artisans and therefore different Italian delicacies. We ate Ragu Arancini and Ricotta stuffed Cannoli.
Santa Maria Maggiore – Rome’s largest of its 26 churches dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Absolutely beautiful, only 10 minutes away from our apartment and free to go inside. The gold used to decorate the gilded ceiling inside, was some of the first to be brought back from America by Columbus!
3. San Carlo Quattro Fontane – Then, we took a road towards Piazza Barberini and passed four fountains that face one another on a crossroad where Barromini was commissioned to build a church and convent. Also along this road is the Palazzo Barberini which houses the National Gallery of Antique Art. Closed on Monday, we were unable to enter, however the exterior with it’s palm trees was beautiful nonetheless!
4. The Spanish Steps – Taking the Via Sistina, we climbed upwards only to really the top of the Spanish Steps. Once again, another breath-taking view. We didn’t take the steps but can’t wait to see the masterpiece from the bottom. We meandered past the Villa Medici (an Italian family name that we have come to see everywhere!) as the sun started to go down and cast it’s rays over the city.
5. Pincio Gardens – Climbing further still, we entered these vast and tranquil gardens, where glamorous Italian women strolled, tourist families segwayed around and keen runners took advantage of the lowering temperatures. These gardens form part of a much larger estate, including that of Villa Borghese.
6. Piazza del Popolo – Aptly, we popped out, looking over the top of this elegant square and grabbing a quick look at the Egyptian-style lion water fountains in the centre.
7. Via del Corso – From Piazza del Popolo, which sits at the head of La Tridente, 3 main roads that fork off, hence it’s reference to the trident, you can walk directly to the Colosseum. Along here we found Italy’s largest Lush stall and couldn’t resist going in as the sales person invited us to try one of their limited edition bath bombs. In awe of their set up, hair treatment and facial areas included, we continued searching for signs to the Trevi Fountain.
8. The Trevi Fountain – What can I say other than “woah!”? As horrendously busy as it was, nothing can detract from the utter scale and size of this thing. There we all were, like ants, clambering to get a good picture of the largest fountain in Rome.
After what felt like a rather unplanned and packed afternoon in the city, we headed back, feeling satisfied that we had explored the North-East area of Rome, the area in which we were staying. One thing we both feel about this city, is that you don’t come here for the food. It really is a place to come and see the sights. One can’t expect the quality of food we have been lucky to dive into so far, at the incredibly low prices we have paid. Not one restaurant or osteria jumped out at us, it didn’t seem to matter whether we were in a tourist trap, or down a side street, most of these places have tacky pictures of the food in the window or overbearing men and women stood outside shoving leaflets in your face to try and get you through their doors. NO THANK YOU. So, with that in mind, we went back to where we knew they did Italian food, for Italian prices; il Mercato Centrale.
As some of you will have seen on Facebook or Instagram, I got a tad emotional about this food, or perhaps it was the giddiness I felt from being in Rome. I finally got to delve into ‘il trapizzino’, a bread pocket filled with whatever ingredients you desire, in keeping with buying a slice of pizza to go but so much better! Nic wanted something rich so he went all out with a truffle Carbonara. Prepared and cooked before your eyes in a matter of minutes with more shaved truffle than you can shake a stick at – holy cow it was insane! To top it off, we each had a coffee ‘Il Magnifico’; think tiramisu in espresso form, with oozing Chantilly cream, chocolate hazelnut spread, and a soft, Madeira-like biscuit. Is there any wonder I had tears in my eyes?
Well done if you got this far and read the whole post, I realise it is a long one! I’ll try to keep the next short and sweet, a little like the ‘Il Magnifico’.
As promised, today involved wine and lots of it, but first a little more on the history of Siena…
Everywhere you turn in this city, you will bump into a column with a figure of the she-wolf with Remus and Romulus. It became the symbol of the city after the sons of Remus, Sienus and Aschius, fled Rome to Siena, taking the statue of the she-wolf with them.
Common too are their portals or gates into the medieval, walled city. This one is the Porta Romana, said to be the most impressive of the gates, which we walk past each day to enter or exit Siena. There are 6 more gates to be found, all signposted and within walking distance – you can basically do Siena in a day!
The flag of Contrada del Nicchio
Finally, we caught a drumming procession, marching around the streets, close to the Piazza del Campo, towards the Duomo. Minding our own business and eating yet more ice cream, we could hear the thunderous rumbles of a marching band and had to check it out!
This procession was preparing for the Corteo Storico Procession, which enters the Piazza del Campo prior to the Palio race. The group wear costumes of the Middle Ages, an in age in which Siena was a free city. These garments are faithful reconstructions of 15th century ceremonial garb and are vibrant in their colour and attention to detail. This procession belonged to the Contrada del Nicchio (Seashell) and any local from this particular parish could also be seen representing their area with the flag wrapped proudly around their shoulders. When we asked an Italian official inside the Piazza del Campo who the drummers were, she replied “my Contrada, Contrada del Nicchio, the best one!!” It is clear that fierce patriotism and a strong sense of belonging runs through the heart of the Sienese people.
OK, enough of the history lesson, now let’s talk wine! Taking a short taxi out into the hills, we arrived here, Azienda Agricola La Lastra. I knew we were on to a winner when the first thing I saw was a tiny, ginger kitten bouncing down the stairs of the Agriturismo and meowed. They are lucky I didn’t catnap the gorgeous little thing, a souvenir for Nigel perhaps!?
Renato, the owner, grower and producer of his vineyard and wine, was to be our host and we had heard such fantastic reviews of him via Get Your Guide, the website we booked this tour on. The package is called ‘Siena: Educational Wine Tour and Tasting’ and cost us €119 for a 3 hour experience.
Starting in San Gimignano in 1994 with his wife Nadia, her brother Christian and other friends, they opened their first vineyard, specialising in white wine. Then, in 2000, the came to the outskirts of Siena to begin a larger venture in producing wine and olive oil. To any novice, this vineyard looks vast, but Renato explained that his mere 9 acres made his vineyard micro-sized.
All the grapes we could see, were of the Sangiovese variety. All Chianti wine must be made with at least 70% of this grape, and we were told that one vine could produce 1kg of grapes, amounting to a single bottle of wine. There are strict rules on the growing of such grapes, including the amount per square mile, and even the distance in which each vine is planted. Of course, the area in which the Chianti-style wines hail from is highly regulated and there are many subregions within it. In Siena, they call it the Colli Senesi.
Renato and his team decided to produce wine that was organic and he explained in great detail the techniques he can or cannot use, such as spraying crops for insects or not being able to irrigate or water the land. He goes to great lengths to ensure his vines are healthy and fruitful whilst having as little impact on the habitat and land around them. It was no surprise that he spoke with such passion and enthusiasm about his work but having studied agriculture at university, Renato also knew the science behind his craftsmanship.
After visiting the vineyard and wine cellar to understand the processes of making a wine, it was time to try them! The tasting room itself was beautifully laid out and so inviting. I should say, we were in a small group with 3 other couples, one from Germany, the others America.
The wine, paired with the delicious food was incredible. We were amazed by how much the wines changed over time as there sat there oxygenating and how mellow each one became. No doubt the reds excited us more, but the white wine we tasted, a Vernaccia Di San Gimignano, was so good we bought a bottle. Not stopping there, we also purchased two bottles of their Rovaio from 2016, made with 34% Sangiovese, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot. To finish, we were given Nadia’s mother’s chocolate cake; a true secret Nonna’s recipe!
Returning to Siena, we had on final evening to enjoy, before heading to Rome in the morning. Our last meal was to be at La Proscuitteria, a restaurant that always seemed packed, where people could enjoy fine wine and incredible platters of meat, cheese and tartare. Inspired from earlier, we started with a glass of Vernaccia Di San Gimignano, the white we enjoyed so much. When the food came, it was only right we then moved on to red so we indulged ourselves in an expensive but oh-so-worth-it glass of Brunello Di Montalcino. The pictures speak for themselves and one can imagine we felt very content on our way back to the hotel.
It was no coincidence that we chose to come to a smaller, sleepier city like Siena between our visits to Bologna, Florence and Rome. It was our fully-intended refuel point before the madness that Rome would entail. So this morning was strictly R&R time: late breakfast, sunbathing on the terrace, drinking beer and playing cards.
After establishing that we were both terrible at shuffling cards and remembering the rules of Rummy (we got there in the end!) we freshened up, feeling somewhat energised by the 32• heat.
Te Ke Voi? or ‘Whaddya Want?’ in English was where we headed for lunch. Can you believe we haven’t eaten pizza on our trip until now!? We soon righted this wrong and shared a pizza with ricotta-stuffed crust and pistachio pesto – delicious!
To make up for our careless attitude towards opening times and complete oblivion to Thursdays being a holy day, there was really only one thing we HAD to do before leaving Florence; climbing the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio. The views across the city speak for themselves and it really was the joining of dots, the icing on the cake and the grande finale to our time here. What better way to see the streets we had walked and the places we had visited over 2 days than to see it all from above?
Back on terra firma, we just had time to discover this graffitied face in the side of the Palazzo Vecchio, nearest the Uffizi. Although the artist is unconfirmed, many a rumour suggests it was carved by the hand of a young Michelangelo – perhaps honing his trade before becoming the star of Italy. After a final caffeine pit stop and a short bus ride across the city, we entered the Santa Maria Novella Station and boarded our train to Siena!
Unfortunately, that is where our so far excellent experience with Italian public transport hit a bump in the road (pardon the pun)! Five minutes after exiting the station, we promptly stopped at Ridelfi station, on the outskirts of Florence to be told someone had jumped on the tracks and the train was to return to Florence SMN.
Queuing for what felt like forever, in a humid station, surrounded by other disgruntled passengers, we eventually got our tickets refunded and decided to get the bus ‘rapido’ to Siena. The Italians had suggested that this was actually easier and more reliable than the train.
The coach was uncomfortable to say the least, packed to the rafters, unable to sit together, no air-con and fabric seats. As you can imagine, we must have lost a stone in sweat – yuck! It’s only saving grace was the journey through the Tuscan landscape, ascending through the winding roads, lined with Cyprus trees. In just over an hour, we arrived into Siena, 2 hours late.
This was the perfect view that awaited us when we arrived at our hotel, the Porta Romana. Situated just outside the city walls, the hotels boasts beautiful, scenic views and despite our room not looking out on to this, there is no shortage of terraces to feast your eyes. Their vast private garden is also a pleasure to wander around, filled with olive trees, rosemary and lavender. It has a positively Mediterranean feel.
Siena itself is smaller than Florence, but still has touches of it’s larger neighbour. The medieval city gives you a sense of what Florence and other Tuscan towns would have been like before they started to expand and commercialise. For Nic and I, it reminded us of our days in Sheffield, with many a steep, narrow road to walk down. It is said that when the students are in Siena, they make up for more than half of the population.
On a Friday night, Siena comes alive. It buzzes with excitement for the weekend and promises to entertain. There are plenty of bars offering live music and most stay open til around 02.00. We stumbled upon a recently open beer house called Sindie and sipped on a 6.5% red ale from Arezzo before finding a place to eat.
Known for their love of meat, in particular beef or steak, the Sienese eateries are not lacking in their abundance of dishes to please the most prolific carnivore. We shared a saffron risotto with pecorino cream, before trying beef tartare and meatballs. Followed by an ice cream truffle with a tasty surprise in the centre and 2 espressos. The glass of Chianti we drank had us chomping at the bit for more meaty reds from this area of Italy.
Finally, the Piazza del Campo, Siena’s historic square. It really is no wonder that this place is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The square is unlike any we have seen, with a distinctive race track around the edge of the square. The renowned Palio horse race takes place here twice a year and spectators are crammed into the centre behind the barriers. For a better view, people can watch the race unfold from the tiered, wooden seating that surround the track. Our plan tomorrow is to make the most of the hotel’s terraces, relax and refuel in the sun, before exploring more of this fascinating city.
Travelling Coltman’s 