Thank goodness for our rest day on the beach. Little did we know that we would walk over 13 miles today alone! Our last full day in Rome was always going to be packed full and we set our sights on Ancient Rome; Palatine Hill, the Roman forum and the Colosseum.
Unlike the Vatican Museums, we hadn’t booked tickets in advance, largely because the website wouldn’t let us when we were in the UK. So we woke up early to get there for 08.30. The queue for tickets at the Colosseum were already estimated to take 2 hours, but luckily for us we had done our research. Just south of the Colosseum, there is another entrance to Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum where you can still buy a combination ticket. In less than 10 minutes we had our tickets and started the ascent, over the old Roman cobbles towards P-Hill.
Immediately we were struck by the incredible artistry, architecture and engineering that meant we were still able to see the structures built thousands of years ago. Nic was most impressed by the brickwork and mortar, suggesting it had stood the test of time unlike anything we see in housing construction today! Nerdy but true.
Also putting modern construction to shame, was the information about the water and heating systems that the Romans devised in a complicated series of baths and cisterns. You could imagine the sophisticated set up they had, here on this hill and the grandeur of it all, despite the buildings and structures being mere ruins. The views from Palatine Hill put the size and scale of this ancient city into perspective and I would highly recommend starting your visit here, rather than the obvious Colosseum.
At every turn, there was something else to help paint the image of the life the Ancient Romans led here, and anyone with an imagination could absolutely visualise being here, in a thriving, bustling, affluent city. To stand in the house of Rome’s first emperor, Augustus, and his wife Livia and to walk along the same mosaic flooring they did was pretty overwhelming. I didn’t expect it to touch me like it did. Thankfully, Augustus made many changes to his residences and these rooms we stood in were so well-preserved because he buried and built over them to create a Temple of Apollo. Sat underground for years, these original houses were eventually unearthed and restored. Even the frescoes and painted ceilings remain intact, the vibrancy if the colours still visible. These were clearly houses intended to impress neighbours and visitors alike.
We spent less time looking in detail at the Roman forum, instead enjoying the views over this area as we walked down. By this point the sun was at it’s highest and we had spent 3 hours lapping up the thrilling history on P-Hill.
With our timed ticket into the Colosseum not until 16.00, we walked back to our apartment to grab some trousers (needed for later!) and then chowed down some delicious pizzas and beer. We were still heady from the morning but the atmosphere as we ate was electric and the place busy with Italians enjoying the start of their national holiday, Ferragosto. It celebrates and coincides with the Catholic feast of the Assumption of Mary and the locals like to make a long weekend of it.
On returning to the Colosseum, I have to admit that I didn’t think it was going to beat Palatine Hill and the forum. Like the Sistine Chapel on Tuesday, I felt that the hype of such a place was almost setting it up to fail. There is no doubt that the sheer size and detail of the Colosseum is spectacular to see but our visit ticked a box, you just can’t visit Rome without seeing it. What happened inside the Colosseum interests me more than the building itself but this didn’t come alive in the same way this morning’s sights had. I’m glad to have done it, but don’t feel the need to again.
Now for the trousers part. If you have been reading this blog, you’ll have realised I haven’t mentioned St. Peter’s Basilica. Our intentions to visit it on Tuesday after the Vatican were altered as it would have meant visiting at the busiest part of the day. Of course we couldn’t just stroll in to the Pope’s pad without covering our legs and shoulders (not that it stops some people from trying anyway!). It staggers me how many visitors we have seen on this trip through Italy, that haven’t got the slightest clue about the expectations to cover shoulders and legs in a religious building.
St. Peter’s square is amazing. The hustle and bustle of vendors fobbing fake rosary beads and holy water is entertaining and bizarre. The men selling scarves also make a killing from the unprepared women who wear spaghetti straps or no straps at all! The imposing columns topped with marble statues of previous popes are so huge, you can hardly imagine how they got all the way up there in the first place!
The inside of St.Peter’s is no different and the size of the statues alone is staggering. This really is ‘the business’ when it comes to representing the Catholic Church. I was impressed and embarrassed in equal measure, by the evident wealth the Catholic Church possesses; I couldn’t help but cringe slightly at the numerous ‘offering’ boxes scattered around.
When evening mass began at 18.00, we obediently took a seat and watched on, trying to fathom what was being said. It’s not often you can say “Hey, I just went for mass at St. Peter’s!” and for that I am really glad we stayed to witness it. I did feel a little uncomfortable though as Italians went to take the blood and body of Christ, the wine and wafer, from the priest, some returning to their seats almost in tears from the experience. As you can tell, I’m not religious (“Really Rosie? That really surprises me!” – said no one ever) and so I couldn’t help feel like I was an imposter, privy to something I shouldn’t be.
I was glad to exit St. Peter’s swiftly and take comfort in the square, back with the ‘normal’ folk. Feet now knackered, we hopped on a bus back towards the train station and flopped on to the bed with relief. No more walking around like mad men, no more sights to see. All we needed now was a hefty meal and a well-earned drink while planning our morning trip to Salerno, on the Amalfi Coast. So far, plans consist of nothing but relaxing in the sun during our last few days in this wonderful country.
Travelling Coltman’s 
Reading your blog I’m almost with you😍 really enjoying it 👍
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