We went running!! OK, so it was only a pathetic 2 mile effort, but even at 8am the temperature reaches 24 degrees. We were achey and slow to say the least, but nonetheless we got some endorphins kick-started and it was beautiful to run along the port.
After a quick breakfast stop; coffee and croissants filled with cream and Nutella, we went to buy tickets to Amalfi. You can reach Amalfi, Positano, Maiori and Minori easily by catching a water taxi or ferry along the coast. For €16 we boarded the ferry bound for Amalfi. Although it is a short 30 minute journey, neither myself or Nic are good on boats and have a track record of being ill. We dosed up on travel sickness tablets and proudly made it to shore without any embarrassing moments.
Nic’s ‘I’m fine’ face.
At this time of the year Amalfi is rammed! People everywhere, cars and mopeds flying around the crowds in frustration and a traffic officer repeatedly blowing on his whistle and trying to keep the peace! If you visit in a August, just expect the chaos and you’ll be fine. We headed straight to Marina Grande, the largest beach. Already it was busy and most of the beach bars and rental sun beds were taken. Just when we felt like giving up and dumping our towels on the large pebbles (Amalfi Coast beaches are not synonymous with sand), we walked to the furthest beach bar and got lucky. For €25 we hired two sun loungers and a parasol for as long as we desired, so basically the entire day!
When the sun started to creep behind the buildings behind us, we packed up and had a fleeting wander around the streets of Amalfi. Admittedly we didn’t enjoy our window-shopping; masses of tourists and windy, narrow streets don’t bode well for a relaxing time. Their main church however, is rather worth a look at and can be seen from the ferry when entering Amalfi. Here everything towers over the seafront and as you hop from one beach to another on the Amalfi Coast, each coastal summit promises to deliver spectacular views.
Amalfi lemons are represented in just about everything here, from tea towels and kitchen ceramics, to lemon soap and of course limoncello. We were drawn into one quieter ceramics shop, with all its goods branded with hand painted donkeys. We bought 2 espresso mugs for €10 and learnt about the donkey becoming a symbol of Amalfi.
We also couldn’t leave without sampling something with their famous lemons. The granita caught our attention and our tastebuds! The tang and zinginess of this delightful lemon is unreal and it certainly woke our senses up! We could drink this all day. We strolled along the coast, waiting for our ferry to come in and caught our last images of Amalfi with the sun-dappled sea and bobbing boats in the harbour.
By this point, our lack of energy probably attributed to having survived off no more than some watermelon, fresh coconut and some juicy peaches all day. When we got back to Salerno (check the latest times water taxis and ferries return to your destinations, they are not late) we could only think about food. Yes, we were wasting away!
We’d spotted a cool sushi bar, Banzai, on the high street and craved something different and fresh whilst still using all of that gorgeous seafood. We shared a sushi board with salmon, tuna and white fish before moving on to some hot plates, yaki soba and salmon teriyaki with rice. Now we were firing on ‘most’ cylinders again!
Once the sun had set, we went to a boat bar, moored up on the port. It looks swanky but the prices for food are similar to those back home. We each had a glass of white wine and some nibbles. Most importantly, we watched the lights of the harbour twinkling on the sea’s surface and crowds of people walking along and looking at the discounted sunglasses stalls or the children’s toys, all with flashing lights and annoying sounds! On the way home, we went past a place we had been told of, which specialises in ice-cream filled brioche, something we must try before we go!
Travelling Coltman’s 