Feeling a little groggy from the previous day (not the wine we promise!) we woke early to catch the 09.18 to Florence. All trains tickets between our planned destinations were booked online in the UK via Trainline.com which made the morning of navigation, broken translation of Italian train station signs and lugging suitcases around much easier! The air-conditioned carriage was heaven and allowed us to scrub up on our knowledge of Florence in comfort during the hour-long journey.
We travelled into Florence Ridelfi, not the main train station, but still not a million miles away from the centre. It was cheaper but in hindsight I would travel directly into Santa Maria Novella next time. We caught an unplanned bus for €1.50 to our apartment – a nice way to act like a local and save your feet for the inevitable walking later!
Domus 19 Guesthouse, our apartment for the next two nights is in the ‘proper’ Florentine district as our lovely host, Fabio, assured us. He referred to the area as “Florence for Florentine people”. After scribbling passionately over a city map, Fabio had given us all the information we needed to eat and live like a local whilst visiting all the main sights. His main recommendations? Head into the city centre during the day for all things touristy, but avoid eating there unless you want to pay more for lesser quality. Cross over the river Arno in the evening to ascend the gardens and viewpoints that look over the city – apparently the sun sets at around 20.20 and is worth the wait. Finally, he taught us the 3 main rules of Florentine ‘Aperitivo’; a little like Spanish tapas in that you only pay for your drink but can eat whatever and however much you like from a buffet.
- First, ask if the restaurant or cafe offers ‘Aperitivo’.
- Ask how much they charge (he suggests you can get excellent Aperitivo between €5-10 but warned that city centre establishments can trick you by not charging for food but instead charging you €30 for one drink so be careful!!)
- Finally, do you like what you see? If the answer is yes, then go for it!
First main attraction was the Ponte Vecchio, Florence’s most famous bridge. It is easy to see why the streets felt more like that of London than Italy with the tourists flocking to take photos of this unusual sight. The vicinity was noticeably crowded, not just with people, but with pop-up stalls selling cheap knock-offs, Pinocchio dolls and ‘I ❤️ Florence’ paraphernalia. Crossing the bridge was no better with dawdlers and selfie stick galore lapping up the albeit stunning views down the river.
Once you pop out the other side of Ponte Vecchio, calm is restored and it is a short walk to the Palazzo Pitti. Due to the rising temperature and growing queue for tickets, we decided against entering the palace, instead opting for the Giardino di Baboli, nestled behind the palace entrance. As the name suggests, the garden once belonged to the Medici family, owners too of the Palazzo Pitti. It houses Renaissance sculptures, grottos and water fountains which are shaded by giant trees and neat hedging and borders.
More surprising were the modern bronzes and sculptures by Liverpudlian artist Tony Cragg. His artwork stands out against the historical gardens but this only makes them more stunning (in our opinion).
In August heat, it would be easy to give up on the steep walk to the amphitheatre but there really is no point visiting the Giardino di Babolo unless you do this. Why? Because the views over Florence will make you forget the tourist-filled streets and hustle bustle of a popular city, and instead think “Oh my god, this is life!”
Just when you think “this can’t get better, I will not see Florence from a greater viewpoint”, think again! The entrance ticket grants you free entry into the nearby Giardino di Barbelli. This was actually our favourite of the two gardens, and although the coffee house was naturally more expensive (€3-4 for coffee compared to €1.50-2) the viewing platform and pleasure of sitting their with a coffee and cigarette is unparalleled.
Nic and I agreed that if we were going to truly enjoy our trip, it would be based on not trying to fit too much in to our days and the various water and coffee stops are testament to that. So, we headed back to our apartment, drank some shop-bought beer and ate the best mini croissants filled with ham and cheese whilst watching an episode of Queer Eye #yaaaaasqueen
Though all was not lost, we booked a table at Osteria del Pesce; a seafood restaurant around the corner and recommended by Fabio. We headed out just before 9pm and we’re the only customers there due to most Italian folk being on their holidays. We were welcomed with a glass of Prosecco whilst being spoilt for choice by the menu.
To start, we had a salmon profiterole and a selection of bread. Contrary to Bologna, the bread was more like focaccia and perfect with the white fish carpaccio with tomatoes and courgette.
After that, we ate the most delicious platter of raw fish and seafood, including oysters, clams, tuna, salmon and prawns. We have never tasted anything like it! Not least because the fish was served with radishes, strawberries and passion fruit. Who knew that these went so well with fish!? Dessert consisted of cannoli with pistachio and biscotti with Italian dessert wine. As we paid (€79 in total, including a bottle of €20 wine) the waiter then asked if we wanted Grappa or Limoncello, we plumped for the latter. Our plan was to eat and then venture back to the river Arno where there is a bar and ‘beach’ area, however, the excitement of the day (and the booze) had other plans.
And so, the city of Florence awaits. Tomorrow, we plan to run along the river, visit the Uffizi gallery and soak up all the city has to offer.
Ciao x
Travelling Coltman’s 
Bella Bella Florence –
Don’t gorget to see the less trafficked Galileo museum just around the corner from the ufitzi its really quirky
Alison x
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